East Coast
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Exploring the East Coast Islands of Thailand
My husband and I were exploring the east coast islands of Thailand as part of a tour with Haivenu Travel Tours, and had holed up for a few days in Koh Tao, the country's east coast diving Mecca, where he was fulfilling a lifetime's ambition to learn to scuba dive. I would probably have joined him, but I had been troubled with a recurring minor, but annoying back injury which had persisted periodically for about a year.
I was wandering the short boardwalk in Mae Haad, the island's principal settlement, heading for a lovely little café to while away some time drinking coffee and enjoy its splendid view over the sea and the neighbouring island of koh Nang Yuan, the offshore reefs of which my husband would be partaking in his PADI openwater course.
Before I reached the café, a group of three women, squatting outside their small dwelling looked me over and gave me a smile. I put my hands together in greeting, Thai style, but I must have betrayed something in my movement, as one of the women rose and immediately exclaimed "lady have pain, need Thai massage. Come."
Given my mildly cynical nature, I would usually have seen this as a ploy to extract some of my ever-dwindling supply of Baht, but somehow, surprising even myself, I responded in imitative Thai-English speak: "You can do?" She shook her head slightly as she turned and called something incomprehensible into the shade of the house, whereupon an elderly woman appeared with a padded headrest and a folded batik over her forearm.
She laid the intricate and brightly coloured batik upon the boards and gestured for me to lie face down, which I obliged. She began by taking hold of my toes in each of her hands and with deft movements began to move the bones within, whilst simultaneously stretching my legs back upon themselves with surprising yet gentle power. At once I recognised that this lady was a true master of her art, and completely yielded to her graceful command.
An uncanny sense of well being took over and I began to feel my body slackening into a wonderful relaxation as she continued. When she reached the arch of my back she instinctively placed one hand on my sore spot with incredible accuracy and held it there for an expanded moment, during which the pain at first flared, then seemed to be drawn out from my body. She began to manipulate my muscles and bones with amazing skill and dexterity, eventually sitting me up to work my arms, shoulders and neck.
When she had finished, she smiled deeply into my eyes. I had no perception of how much time had passed, but felt I had been entirely re-moulded and experienced an extraordinarily lightness. I stood up without difficulty and effused my thanks to her, quickly reaching for my bag to gratefully pay, but she halted me with a disconcerting look and waved her hands in smiling yet firm refusal.
I will never forget this deceptively frail looking little lady and her extraordinary skill and modesty. In the six months that have passed since then, I have felt neither a trace of pain or hindrance in movement. If you find yourself in Thailand, do treat yourself to a delicious Thai massage. You will probably have to pay, as I would have been more than happy to, but it is a very wholesome and rewarding experience. Somehow for me, though, there remains an extra dimension to my own encounter which still provokes my curiosity.
I was still in a blissful state when I later I caught up with my husband, who even as we kissed in greeting, began to enthuse about his days' diving. "I learned an interesting fact today" he told me, "apparently women can stay submerged on a tank of air longer because they naturally possess more efficient control over their body's interior energies." I smiled…now there's a revelation!
Julia Haynes
About the Author
Vietnam Travel Tours and Holidays


US $60.00














































































